Matt Cramer
08-08-2007, 05:14 PM
I've taken another look through the manual - these mods are not particularly easy to do in the 1.0 release family, so I'll make this for 2.0 beta codes and higher.
After getting a clear RPM reading from the crank trigger, the next thing to check is the camshaft (distributor) trigger. It's a 5 volt Hall effect sensor.
There's one thing that complicates this one: The MS-II V3.0 is running out of inputs if you're using our standard harness. You'll probably want the stepper IAC wires, so the only pins you can grab are the spare pins (not in the harness, but you can add a wire there) or you can disable the on/off fast idle output. Your choice. If you have a V3.57, you can use the DB15 connector here.
If you're using the spare input pins, they're labeled SPR1 through SPR4. These correspond to pins 3 through 6 on the DB37. Follow these steps:
1. Connect the SPR pin of your choice to JS10.
2. Split the output of the camshaft position sensor so it goes to both the appropriate spare input on Megasquirt and the stock PCM.
If you're using the fast idle pin 30 as an input, follow these steps:
1. Remove D8 and Q4. (If you're assembling from a new unit, just leave them out along with R19, Q20, and R39).
2. Use the hole on the banded end of D8 as your input pin. Connect this to JS10.
3. Split the output of the camshaft position sensor so it goes to both the appropriate spare input on Megasquirt and the stock PCM.
Next we set up the basic wheel decoder. We won't worry about trigger angles yet as we're just using this as an RPM input for now.
1. Change it back to 8 cylinders (it was set to 16 in step 1 testing of our experiment).
2. Under Basic / Advanced user, enable spark output if you have not already done so.
3. Under Tach Input / Ignition Settings, make the following changes:
Ignition Input Capture: Falling Edge
Spark Mode: Toothed Wheel
Spark Output: Going High (Inverted)
Number of Coils: Single Coil
Spark A output pin: D14
Burn these to the ECU.
4. Under Trigger Wheel Settings, make the following changes:
Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel
Trigger Wheel Teeth: 8
Missing Teeth: 0
Tooth #1 Angle: 0 (this is going to be changed later)
Wheel speed: Crank wheel
Second trigger active on: Rising and Falling
Burn these settings to the ECU.
You'll need to turn the ECU off and back on again after making these changes.
Check to be sure you are getting RPM.
Next step after this is found to work will be to set up the actual trigger angles.
After getting a clear RPM reading from the crank trigger, the next thing to check is the camshaft (distributor) trigger. It's a 5 volt Hall effect sensor.
There's one thing that complicates this one: The MS-II V3.0 is running out of inputs if you're using our standard harness. You'll probably want the stepper IAC wires, so the only pins you can grab are the spare pins (not in the harness, but you can add a wire there) or you can disable the on/off fast idle output. Your choice. If you have a V3.57, you can use the DB15 connector here.
If you're using the spare input pins, they're labeled SPR1 through SPR4. These correspond to pins 3 through 6 on the DB37. Follow these steps:
1. Connect the SPR pin of your choice to JS10.
2. Split the output of the camshaft position sensor so it goes to both the appropriate spare input on Megasquirt and the stock PCM.
If you're using the fast idle pin 30 as an input, follow these steps:
1. Remove D8 and Q4. (If you're assembling from a new unit, just leave them out along with R19, Q20, and R39).
2. Use the hole on the banded end of D8 as your input pin. Connect this to JS10.
3. Split the output of the camshaft position sensor so it goes to both the appropriate spare input on Megasquirt and the stock PCM.
Next we set up the basic wheel decoder. We won't worry about trigger angles yet as we're just using this as an RPM input for now.
1. Change it back to 8 cylinders (it was set to 16 in step 1 testing of our experiment).
2. Under Basic / Advanced user, enable spark output if you have not already done so.
3. Under Tach Input / Ignition Settings, make the following changes:
Ignition Input Capture: Falling Edge
Spark Mode: Toothed Wheel
Spark Output: Going High (Inverted)
Number of Coils: Single Coil
Spark A output pin: D14
Burn these to the ECU.
4. Under Trigger Wheel Settings, make the following changes:
Trigger wheel arrangement: Dual wheel
Trigger Wheel Teeth: 8
Missing Teeth: 0
Tooth #1 Angle: 0 (this is going to be changed later)
Wheel speed: Crank wheel
Second trigger active on: Rising and Falling
Burn these settings to the ECU.
You'll need to turn the ECU off and back on again after making these changes.
Check to be sure you are getting RPM.
Next step after this is found to work will be to set up the actual trigger angles.