Tranny filter

[Tim]

Hey

What are the best tranny filters to use with Amsoil ATF, and where can I get it in Canada. Do i need to change both filters in the tranny when I change over to Amsoil?

Thanks

[Shatto]

Presumably you are talking about internal filters, which you'd want to change when you check the interior and adjust bands, as necessary.

Want to be real slick? Buy an external filter, tap into the line and use an Amsoil Ea spin-on filter. You'll have a bit of extra capacity, cooling and be certain the Amsoil ATF is filtered.

[Y2KOTA]

If your talking about a 45RFE Tranny. Yes replace both filters. When I switched mine to AMSOIL ATF used used Mopar filters. Thats all I could find at the time. Amsoil at the time didn't have a spin on that would fit.

[Amsoil Dealer]

__________________

Y2KOTA,

_ #1) I think Shatto made some good suggestions.
_ #2) I'm not a transmission expert, and I'm not certain if there is a "best" filter, maybe there is.
_ #3) Where to buy Amsoil in Canada? We have two (2) Amsoil Warehouse / Distribution Centers in Canada.
_ #4) How? Request a Free Amsoil Catalog on my website, place an order, and it is shipped directly to you.

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Here is what I typically tell people. If you have the right tools, the proper mechanical ability, and if you are going to DIY ... You can pick up a filter kit from AutoZone for about $10 - $15 and it contains the filter and gasket. It is not nessasary to use any silicon or gasket sealer just be sure your pan surface is clean. NOTE: It is a messy DIY job.

Honestly, I purchase Amsoil Synthetic Universal ATF for my own vehicles and then take the fluids to a local shop. They use the fluids that I provide and charge me a "nominal" service fee for the labor. I do the same with my motor oil.

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Changing Your Transmission Fluid in 12 EASY Steps:

1. Make sure the fluid is warm. Warm up your Dakota so the transmission is at normal operating temperature. Pull the transmission dipstick. Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.

2. Drain the fluid by loosening the pan. Select the correct filter replacement based on pan shape and prepare a large pan to catch the fluid. Then loosen each pan bolt a turn or two and loosen one corner more than rest. Drain mostly from this corner.

3. Finish removing the pan and any gasket material from the pan or case. Avoid scratching the metal and make sure the pan’s gasket surface isn’t bent or distorted.

4. Remove the old filter. Most transmission filters are held in place with a bolt or two, but some are held by a clip. Be careful to include O-Rings or other seals.

5. Install a new filter. Use the clips or bolts from the old filter. Be sure O-Rings, etc. are in place. If the filter has a long intake neck, gently push the neck into place without unseating the O-Ring.

6. Clean the pan thoroughly. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Clean the pan with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue.

7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the gasket in place.

8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.

9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual or "AMSOIL Product Selection Guide,” using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.

10. If doing only a partial fluid replacement, skip to instruction 12 below. If doing a complete fluid replacement, follow the steps in instruction 11.

11. You now have replaced the fluid in the pan. To replace the fluid in the torque converter and oil cooler also, follow these steps.

Step 1. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer or AMSOIL. Have this amount readily available.

Step 2. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. As you may not know which is the pressure side and which is the return side, have both directed so the stream of fluid will be directed toward a receptacle.

Step 3. With another person, be prepared to add ATF to the fill area as it is being pumped out of the oil cooler line.

Step 4. Start the engine, and as the old fluid is pumped out, add fresh fluid to the pan.

Step 5. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All fluids has now been changed.

12. Recheck the fluid level. With the truck on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission into different positions before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks.

__________________ https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/atf_qt_300pxh.jpg _________________

Amsoil Synthetic UNIVERSAL Automatic Transmission Fluid

Improves fuel efficiency, reduces transmission temperatures and increases transmission life. Provides unsurpassed thermal stability and up to five times the service life of conventional ATFs. Delivers maximum protection for towing and other severe-duty applications.

Recommended for applications requiring the following specifications:

Chrysler ATF+, ATF+2, ATF+3, ATF+4

Time to switch another vehicle to Amsoil _____:worky:

[Amsoil Dealer]

__________________

In addition, I am often asked ...

"How do I empty the transmission and torque converter completely?"

All the "flushing machines" I've seen intercept the ATF being pumped out of the transmission throught the cooler lines and replace it with new ATF as the transmission idles normally. The same thing happens when doing the ATF replacement at home with hoses and buckets.

I have been informed that the "flushing machines" are NOT gentle, and the pressure from the inlet stirs what is in the bottom of the pan and it gets drawn in. I have been advised to NOT FLUSH ...but to drain, drop, change, fill.

I don't think it was possible to drain all of the oil out of an automatic transmission because of the large amount left in the torque converter. On some vehicles, this can amount to almost half the total quantity. Often the pan holds less than half the ATF. You probably can't get new ATF in as fast as the old ATF is pumping out ... so be ready to stop & restart the engine several times (ask a friend to help).

To do a complete change, you would need to do a flush and fill through the cooler lines, either with a "flushing machine" or the way my Uncles did it ........ clamping a hose on the "out" line on the cooler and letting that run into a bucket, and then refilling the tranny simultaneously with engine idling. You could then let it cool, drain and drop the pan, change filter, reinstall pan and top up with oil just drained.

I have also been told that the "flush machines" cause a lot of transmissions to "go bad" shortly after the flush. I think that some of the machines actually have a "cleaning fluid" that they run through the transmission. Maybe that fluid is the cause.

*** Note: I am NOT a Transmission Expert. I am simply adding what I hope to be helpful information based on conversations with other people.

[Shatto]

Tim,
FYI, I just got my analysis back from Oil Analyzers;

Sample Date: 01-20-07
Description: Dakota Transmission
Oil Type: Amsoil ATF
Miles on Unit: 547,736
Miles on Sample: 47,736
Analysis Recommendations: No corrective action required. Oil is suitable for continued use. Resample at next regular interval.

You will notice 47,736 is somewhat beyond the normal recommended oil change.
There were four tests over this mileage.
Kit: $20.00
So, I spent $60.00 plus, oh, $20.00 postage for $80.00. How does that compare with however many oil changes you'd do?

[captrichiee]

The problem with the flush machines is that they do not clean or flush the filter. Nor the magnet, if you have one. Recently, they have stopped flushing with a regular low priced and discarded fluid and simply now flush with whatever you choose, their product or Mobil 1 Syn., AMS Syn. etc. Problem is that these fluids are so good that a filter that needed replacing will become clogged with residual in a very short time.

Any thoughts or feedback/corrections to these observations would be appreciated. In the meantime, remove pan and filter and change filter. Clean everything squeeky clean, use a good RTV to seal in decent porportion, and clean retighten screws in cross diagional pattern with torque socket NTE 13 foot pounds. Then add a good synthetic and never use anything else. Mobil and AMS Oil are fine products.

I'd appeciate any other input. Please!

[Shatto]

The problem with the flush machines is that they do not clean or flush the filter. Nor the magnet, if you have one. Recently, they have stopped flushing with a regular low priced and discarded fluid and simply now flush with whatever you choose, their product or Mobil 1 Syn., AMS Syn. etc. Problem is that these fluids are so good that a filter that needed replacing will become clogged with residual in a very short time.

Any thoughts or feedback/corrections to these observations would be appreciated. In the meantime, remove pan and filter and change filter. Clean everything squeeky clean, use a good RTV to seal in decent porportion, and clean retighten screws in cross diagional pattern with torque socket NTE 13 foot pounds. Then add a good synthetic and never use anything else. Mobil and AMS Oil are fine products.

I'd appeciate any other input. Please!


You are absolutely right.
My high miles using the reverse flush machine is testament to Amsoil ATF's protection, more than the goodness of reverse flushing. I'd go with doing it right every 3 or 3 times. Should be safe.

The plan, I think, is to do an oil analysis at 3-times the factory recommended change, as Amsoil recommends, to be sure it needs to be replaced. If you drive the hell out of it, like me, you'll be able to go much further than the person who commutes 5 miles to work and home.
I've also gone to changing differential oil at 50,000 miles to stay safe. Ditto steering fluid and......don't forget to replace the brake fluid periodically.